Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Kyoto - Are you temple-fied / fried yet?

One of the main highlights of Kyoto is the many shrines and temples that are present within this huge city. After all, it was the ancient capital of Japan and the central seat of power, culture and religion a long long time ago before Tokyo. Even when planning for the itinerary, I was already dizzy with the immense number of cultural places, shrines and temples that were present in the city. So in order not to be temple-fied or let my brains be templed-fried out for a first time visitor, we chose to stick to the more conventional and popular choices. Yet in a city with 17 historic sites under the UNESCO World Heritage list, I'm very sure there's plenty of choices to make in visiting. Safely speaking, you would probably take a few days to actually uncover some of the hidden gems in the city.

Having said that, Kyoto did rank as a favourite place for me throughout the trip, even more so than Tokyo, as I felt that the pace of life there was more laid-back and there's plenty of room to enjoy the serenity of the place. Oh and the food of course! I really mean laid-back because it seems alot of shops close early and most of the attractions which are the shrines and temples are closed by 5pm everyday. So I would certainly recommend a "wake up early and end the night early" routine when visiting Kyoto, as well as spacing out temple and shrine visits and just not be too rushed so that one can fully enjoy the sights of the place.

Navigation around the city was surprisingly easy and mostly done by the public bus actually. Grab a day pass and it's possible to zip easily from place to place. The city is aligned in a grid pattern and the buses usually make a loop around certain parts of the city before meeting back at the Kyoto Station. As for the buses, I must say Japanese bus drivers here in Kyoto are a really thoughtful lot for the senior citizens. The bus driver would stop the bus and get out of his seat to manually arrange a boarding platform for wheelchair-bound seniors. Other things to get used to is that it's a "board first from the back and pay later when you get off at the front" system and all the driver's habit of switching off the engine whenever the bus comes to a stop, whether at traffic lights or bus stops.



Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)

Undoubtedly the main draw for temples. It's the Golden Pavilion that is set amidst the water that makes it so striking. I saw postcards of the Pavilion in different seasons and I say it's absolutely stunning and unique in those individual settings.


The entrance ticket looked more like those Chinese charms

Supposed to throw a coin into the bowl as offering to the deities. As you can, it's many misses

The many fortune telling machines around in different languages. If it's a good lot, you keep it. If not, it's tied to the string



Ryōan-ji (龍安寺)

I thought the grounds on this temple was more of simplicity. Had a much needed short break here.


Philosopher's Path (哲学の道)

We started on this in the early morning. Honestly I think this route is more suited to be done during the cherry blossom season as it would look really pretty. Otherwise, we were more treated to lots of greenery under the hot sun. Apparently, this path was so named because of a philosophy professor that takes this route to walk to his school. My gosh, I am pretty sure after walking this long road, he's sure to set tough questions for the students! Anw I did not feel very smart after walking the Philosopher's Path... :p

I thought the Ginkakuji (銀閣寺), which is the Silver Pavilion was a bit disappointing as it is not really covered in silver as the name suggests and it was under renovation. Other than that, there's really too many shrines along this route. We popped by into Honen-in that was set in the cooling forest, a tranquil breakaway from the hot sun and city. Other than that, it was more of relying on the directional signs and occasional landmarks to continue on the Philosopher's Path to Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺).







Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺)

This is also another hot choice for temples. But to get there, we had to walk 500 m up a really steep and narrow street lined with tourist shops from the bus stop. One huge reason why it's so popular is the Jishu Shrine, which is where people come to pray for love and buy love charms. Noticed that Japanese girls would come in threes in kimono to come to pray. Needless to say, my female friends were particularly excited to visit the shrine and it was a good place to snag a couple of charms for my single friends back home. In addition, it seems like the bunny or rabbit is a messenger of love and they are seen everywhere. There's also 2 love stones placed 18 m apart where you are supposed to walk in between them blindfolded. If successful, you get your wishes fulfilled, or if you require a bit of help, it means your love life would depend on some middleman / matchmaker. Hmm....think it's supposed to mean that way. Anw I just bought one lot just for fun and I got 大吉 which is like the best lot of all and ever since then, it has been the laughing butt of all jokes amongst my friends. Oh wells....















Met into a few geishas on our way down who were the crowd-stoppers


Our meal for the day; Nishio Soba or Kyoto-style soup noodle with soy sauced based soup served with pancake dessert


And a light snack with green tea puffs...shiok!


Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社)

This shrine is a bit out of the city, but it was well worth it as it's very unique with hundreds of torii gates lined up. And they look even more reddish under the glow of the afternoon sun. It's dedicated to the fox goddess, as they pray for a good rice harvest. However, can't help but feel it kinda has an eerie atmosphere in the evening, especially with a cemetary in the hills and a popular folk legend that the fox spirits possess people through the fingernails.





When viewed on one side, we did not notice that there were wordings on the torii gates. Turn around and another view was sighted..







Tō-ji (東寺)

This houses the tallest five storied pagoda in all of Japan, standing at 57 m.


Gion district (祇園)

Gion retains much of its traditional feel with its streets lined with the traditional wooden machiya style merchant houses. It's also the place to do geisha spotting as sometimes it's possible to see them zipping past the streets or hopping into a taxi. And as gently lectured by my friends, geishas are not prostitutes but rather entertainers. Heard it's quite expensive to hire the services of a geisha, but we were treated to a crash course of the Japanese culture and arts at Gion Corner which I felt was really worth the money and time spent.

Sights of the Kamo River as we walked across to Gion

Hilarious statue...mind the private bits!

Along Hanami-koji street in Gion



Tea ceremony

Koto music appreciation, used in the imperial court

Flower arrangement

Gagaku music, or elegant music, accompanied by an intricately dressed dancer

A Kyogen, or ancient comic play. This was my favourite segment in the show. It speaks of how these 2 dudes try to drink a pot of wine despite being tied up together. Hilarious expressions!



Kyomai dance style performed by maikos



And lastly, a bunraku puppet play. It was interesting to see that 3 people were needed to handle the puppet and 2 of them were masked

Man...this lady scared the crap out of me 2 times as we passed by the teahouse. She was very fast and responsive to anybody that passed by the shop!

A night stroll over at the Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)

Nishiki Market (錦市場) and well...just food in general :p

Nishiki Market rightly deserves its title as Kyoto's Kitchen. I dare say there's lots to eat here as well as the surrounding bustling Shinkyogoku area.

On the way to Nishiki Market

Distracted by a religious ceremony at a nearby shrine whilst in search of food though

Kyoto's Kitchen right here laid out in a street

My king sized okonomiyaki


Dessert store which is our best find and treat in Kyoto...although we found out that there's this rule in Japanese restaurants that everyone has to order something and no sharing allowed...it took awhile for the storekeepers to communicate to us as they were speaking completely in Jap

Sweets

Green tea and red bean ice kachang...I love the richness of the green tea..shiok!

Ice cream with beans

Beans and nuts

Our red bean mochi, as well as the special kuei, which we found out needed a bit of effort to make it taste good...notice the tools needed?

First, ground 3 beans at one go using the traditional grinder

Sieve ready in position

Brush the grinded bean flakes into the sieve


And voila! Sprinkle it on the kuei! I tell ya it's bloody fabulous!

At the unagi house where we ate like kings and queens



More random food samples along the way..no we did not just look...we ate!





The Hokkaido crab sign was beckoning to me across the street..the way it danced, the way it moved. Yes that huge crab signage does move!

Our takeaway sushi with Hokkaido crab meat on it. I had to use a creative way of indicating my wish for takeaway and I blurted out "da bao" with running action much to the amusement of my friends and the 2 ladies serving us..

Damage: 1855 yen


Not at Nishiki Market anymore, but eateries close to our hostel..showing the life of a Jap adult after work..

Kyoto style yakitori...the purplish spices added were kinda sour though





Teppanyaki with the friendly and chatty Jap uncle




And finally to end off our stay in Kyoto, just to comment a bit abt our hostel. It was really nice, spacious, cheap and had a slight Japanese-style furnishing to it. I still remember it has a super handy folder in each room with loads of information in it which I stashed about in my backpack when touring Kyoto (but hey i did return the folder!) And best of all, it has a free kimono dress up for the female guests at the hostel. You could sense the excitement in my friends.

HL: Look at me! *Smiles*
Counter dude: Too tight too tight! *Shakes his head*


Anw just to end off by reinstating that I loved my stay in Kyoto. More updates to come!

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